Thursday 21 February 2013

``Life`` on the Nile: Aswan Part 2

Day two in Aswan.....bright and sunny....we were sadly misinformed about the what the weather was going to be like down here.
We brought bathing suits and short sleeve shirts...and while it was quite warm in the city...out on Elephantine Island where our hotel was...the wind could get at you and it was really quite cool...nights were down right cold. But it IS the desert.
Up and at the buffet breakfast again....lots of everything...a nice way to start the day.
Kim informed me that she had a ``minimum`` two hours of shopping to do...and didn't need me there to impede her momentum.
So I stayed back and hung around the pool.
While she went across the river and into the souk to shop.




The infinity pool at our hotel...the mainland across the Nile in the distance....I went in for a swim...but it was cool.




That's me hiding in the blankets from the flies....I actually had a very nice sleep.
Kim took this while I was sawing logs.

The deal was I would hang around the hotel 'til noon....and then come across the river to meet up with Kim...because there was another souk that I had spied when we drove in from the airport and I wanted to explore it.




Ferry coming to pick me up.

When I got to the other side there was an old cruise ship...from way way back...tied up a the ferry terminal...it's a beautiful wooden side wheeler that's about a hundred years old.
But it still plies the Nile taking guests on a two day trip from Luxor to Aswan...I'd like to take that trip some day.
It's called the "Sudan". AND if you can believe it....this was the boat used in the 1978 movie ``Death on the Nile`` an adaptation of Agatha Christies famous novel....more on that a little later.




The "Sudan" from the front.



Side view....it has about 20 cabins.

I met up with Kim...and we did some more shopping at a local Arab market.....then went back to the hotel for a couple of drinks ...then about 4:30 we headed out for the "Old Catarac" hotel....to have some drinks and watch the sunset from the terrace.




Arab souk...this is a market made up of merchandise for local consumption...although I did buy shoes here!

It's only about a twenty minute walk from our ferry stop to the "Old Catarac" hotel down the Aswan Corniche. But I thought we would grab a horse and carriage to takes us there if I could make a deal with one of these ruffians who drive the buggies. They're a surly and untrustworthy bunch...and really should be avoided at all costs.


Typical horse and carriage in Aswan.

When we hit the sidewalk from the ferry stop...the carriages were all there but no drivers.
I didn't want to make it look like I wanted a carriage...because then you tip your hand when it comes to negotiating the fare. So a driver was going past on the road and he yelled to see if I wanted a cab....I said sure how much to the Old Catarac...he quoted me some outlandish price...so back and forth we go....it ended up ten pounds...about a dollar fifty Canadian.
But then another driver came running up and told the guy he was stealing his fare...because he was next in line....I didn't care who took us...so I said to the new guy will you take me to the hotel for ten pounds...he said yes...big mistake.
These two guys started arguing big time....I mean big time.
We got  in the guys carriage and off we go...but didn't get a hundred yards down the street....when a couple of guys came running out from across two lanes of traffic and STOPPED his horse in the middle of the street....lots of really loud yelling. It seems the other guy had phoned ahead and told his friends to get this guy. Kim and I jumped off the buggy.....and the last we saw were these guys punching each other in the street!
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One of the buggy drivers on the move.

Ten seconds later....clop clop clop....up behind us another buggy guy taking advantage of the fracus on the street came up..."hey you want a ride....I take ....you good deal" I told him to get stuffed and he got mad and told me to go home!!!
A hundred feet further on ......a parked buggy one of these thugs jumps off and says "ride? I take you cheap". I start trying to make a deal and Kim says oh no I'm not dealing with these guys anymore.
I said wait....we could see the Hotel about half a kilometer away...I said ...okay five pounds to the Old Catarac....he said okay....I said to Kim come let's go it's just a little ways. I went to get into the carriage and he says okay good...five dollars...I said no five pounds...he says no five dollars....I said you prick!
I didn't get in the carriage obviously and we continued walking down the street where we were accosted about every thirty seconds by somebody wanting something. It's pretty bad. ...and these carriage drivers aren't to be trusted under any circumstances.
We found out later that these guys are considered the lowest of the low by other Aswanis...and they have their own area where they live...and they're constantly fighting among themselves there....so I guess a street fight over business isn't that uncommon.

We finally make it to the Old Catarac...I mentioned before this is  an exquisitely beautiful old Victorian Hotel with decks and terraces on many levels....a pool over looking what used to be the cataracs...which  is now merely the Nile  meandering between outcrops of rounded rock. But years ago the water would have been rushing down through here...there would have been a great deal of sound and spray....it must have something....even today it's wonderful.


Aggie Baby


One of it's main claims to fame...and there are many....is the famous crime writer "Agatha Christie" wrote "Death on the Nile" while she was in residence in the hotel.
It's a novel about these crazy Egyptian carriage drivers...no I'm just kidding.....

Death on the Nile First Edition Cover 1937.jpg


Novel: "Death on the Nile".....written in 1937...at the "Old Catarac" Hotel ...Aswan.

We had to go through electronic security to get in....and escorted into the grounds by a security guard...who showed us the way to the entrance. The grounds are infinitely well manicured with a fountains large and small all over the grounds.







The entrance grounds to the "Old Catarac" Hotel

In through the entrance and you're in another world....a young man immacuately attired in a suit with a burgundy vest and an old fashion fez meets us....and immediately takes us on a mini tour....


Entrance...sorry about my finger!


Part of the main lobby.


The hotel is the same as it was a hundred and fifty years ago...marble...antiques chandeliers vases of flowers breath taking really.


Kim in front of a flower display in the main lobby.
Out the back to magnificent view from on high of the Nile...and many faluccas darting back and forth taking people on scenic rides.


The view from the terrace of the Old Catarac...looking down on the Nile.
In the middle right...you can see the tower of our hotel in the distance.

Sunset looking down on the cataracs. There is a restaurant on the island you see in the middle.

We sit down and have a couple of beers and just relaxed and looked in wonder upon the whole thing....and I thought...how good is my life...when I can sit here on the terrace of one of the most beautiful hotels in the world...and watch the sun set over the Nile River!
 I was soon snapped out of my blissful revery when the waiter handed  me the bill....Ouch.....in Aswan you have to pay for your  indulgences!
Back out on the street...a big hassle with the taxi drivers....I finally got one to take us the two kilometers home....for ten pounds....and early night.

Next day up and out...our last ferry ride to the mainland.




The ferryman and fellow rider...heading out to the airport.





Kim..the hardly.....I mean hardy sailor.

The obvious....I'm happy.....really!!

We had arranged a taxi ride to the airport the day before  with an honest looking driver who hung around the ferry terminal . A bargain at 80 pounds.


Maintenance on  the streets of Aswan.
This where we came in...isn`t it.

The flight home was miserable with a plane load of flies and squalling brats!
Our driver was waiting for us....it took longer to drive home through the traffic in Cairo....than it did to fly from Aswan.

Home sweet home!

1 comment:

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